Alter, grade and specify the Studio Quill bias dress

What is going on

Studio Quill, an independent label client, has approved the fit of style SQ-DRS-07, a bias cut dress in ivory silk crepe, on the base size 10 with two changes: the front neckline is to be raised 12 millimetres at centre front to remove gape, and the hem is to be dropped 20 millimetres. The client wants a quote for 120 units across sizes 6 to 16 and needs the measurement specification for their online size guide. The Pattern Room Supervisor wants the alteration applied, the style graded, the specification completed for every size, a costing marker run and the Tech Pack Register updated so the tech pack can move to Approved once the pre-production sample is sealed.

Your brief

Apply the approved fit alterations, grade the pattern across the size range, complete the measurement specification and bill of materials pages of the tech pack, produce a costing marker with fabric consumption, and update the Tech Pack Register to the correct status with all changes recorded.

Work through it

You do not need to do it all. Doing a few of these will show you what the work is like. Your ticks and notes stay on this device.

• Read the Sample Approval and Tech Pack Release Procedure and the fit comment sheet, and record the two alterations with the measurement change and reason for each.
• Apply the neckline and hem alterations to the base size pattern, noting how the bias grain and the facing pieces are affected, and increment the pattern version.
• Select the grade rules for the dress block family and grade the pattern to sizes 6 to 16, checking the nest for smooth progression at the neckline, bust and hem.
• Complete the measurement specification page of the Tech Pack Template for every size with points of measure, method, base value, tolerance and grade increment.
• Complete the bill of materials page, checking the silk crepe and lining article numbers and quantities against Materials and Trims Stock.
• Produce a costing marker for the size ratio the client requested and record the marker efficiency and fabric consumption per dress.
• Update the SQ-DRS-07 entry in the Tech Pack Register with the new version, the fit history and the status the procedure allows at this stage, and note what is still needed before Approved.
• Write a short handover note to the Pattern Room Supervisor listing the changes, the consumption figure for quoting and the sealed sample step that remains.

What someone in this role would produce

• Altered base pattern and graded nest with version record
• Completed measurement specification and bill of materials pages
• Costing marker report with consumption per unit
• Updated Tech Pack Register entry and handover note